FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

Active Ingredients

Active ingredients work either alone or together to deliver a proposed benefit in personal care, hair care and in cosmetics. Active ingredients includes anti-oxidants, alpha & beta Hydroxy acids, Anti aging agents, anti dark circle agents, anti wrinkle agents, Hair repair agents, Humectants, Liposomes, Oily skin Oily skin regulators, Peptides, Proteins, Rejuvenating and soothing agents, self-tanners, Skin lightning agents and vitamins.

These ingredients can exfoliate the upper layers of the skin giving a smoother more hydrated and firmer skin over time. Can be used in concentrations of 4-8% between a pH of 3-4. These include Mandelic acid, Lactic acid and Glycolic acid.

Consists of salicylic acid and helps to exfoliate the skin. It is used to improve acne and blackheads and should be used in a pH range of 3-4. It can reverse the appearance of discoloured skin and fine wrinkles.

 

Anti-oxidants have powerful anti-aging benefits. They protect the skin’s surface from oxidative damaged caused by free radicals and Environmental stresses such as UV and pollution. They have 2 major functions of which the first is stabilisation of natural ingredients in the product and secondly it protects the skin cells from being damaged and slows down aging. It can reduces the appearance of fine lines and lighten the skin by minimising hyperpigmentation and age spots.

Anti-aging agents are generally known as cosmeceuticals and slow down the degenerative processes in the skin which usually occur with aging. They have different functions which includes moisturising, anti-oxidant effects, retains water, stimulates the skin and maintains the natural homoeostatis of the skin cell. They reduce the appearance of fine lines. Such ingredients include Argerilene, Anti-aging phytylene’s and ceramides.

Eyelid skin is one of the areas where the skin is the thinnest in the body and it dries and irritates easily and therefore blood vessels there are more noticeable. Engorged blood vessels are the result of dark circles around the eyes. Anti-dark circle agent can reduce the appearance of dark circles around the eyes. Typical ingredients to assist in anti-dark circle agents include Hyaluronic acid, Caffeine, Niacinimide, Ceramides and Retinoids.

Hair repair agents can repair damaged hair. Proteins are typically hair repair agents that form protective films around the hair shaft, other agents repair dry scalp and keeps the hair hydrated.

Humectants prevent the loss of moisture retaining your skin’s natural moisture. Some humectants can also attract moisture and is very important in skin care products. They can also provide a volume effect to the hair.

Liposome have a very small particle size (nano-sized) and have a very high affinity for the skin. They can penetrate the skin deeply. Some of these liposomes include Coenzyme Q10 and ceramides.

Peptides consist of amino acids and peptides added to skin care, hair care and cosmetics are synthetic. They have various functions of which some include anti aging. They are very water soluble and easy to use. Example, Argerilene is a very good anti-aging peptide.

Skin pigmentation occurs if the skin produces too little or too much melanin and is known as hyperpigmentation. Hyperpigmentation can be caused by skin damage (wounds), hormones and spots caused by sunburn. Skin lightning ingredients reduce or block melanin production. Treatments can include gels/lotions containing these ingredients as well as sunscreen or exfoliants/chemical peels or laser. Examples of skin lightning ingredients include Vitamin C (Ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl palmitate), Niacinimide and Vitamin  A Palmitate.

Vitamins provide a wide range of functions in personal care, hair care and cosmetic formulations such as skin lightning, anti-aging, antioxidant, suppression of pigmentation. The most used vitamins include Vitamin A, C, E and provitamin B5 (D-panthenol)

Over the counter ingredients include ingredients used to treat Acne, Dandruff, ingredients for antiperspirants and skin protectants.

Acne can be treated with vitamin A derivatives, exfoliation and anti-inflammatory agents. 

Antiperspirants are known for their sweat and odour control properties. They stop or reduce perspiration and reduces the moist climate for bacteria to thrive in. 

Exfoliants

Exfoliating is the process of removing dead skin cells from the surface of your skin using a chemical, granular substance, or exfoliation tool and leaving the skin smooth, fresher and less wrinkled. It promotes blood circulation in the skin and increases the turnover of surface skin cells. There are 2 methods to exfoliate. One method is to use mechanical scrubbing techniques containing small or hard particles and the second method is by using cleansers containing active ingredients with peeling effects such as AHA’s.

These are cleansers and/or serums containing AHAs such as Lactic acid, Glycolic acid or Mandelic Acid. They can exfoliate the upper layers of the skin giving a smoother more hydrated and firmer skin over time. 

These are cleansers and/or serums containing salicylic acid. They help to exfoliate the skin. They are used to improve acne and blackheads. They can also reverse the appearance of discoloured skin and fine wrinkles.

Mechanical scrubbing uses physical particles or tools to manually buff away dead skin cells from the skin’s surface. Common examples include sugar scrubs, salt scrubs, facial brushes and exfoliating cloths. This method gives instant smoothness and is best used 1-2 times per week. Avoid over-scrubbing as it can cause micro-tears, irritation and sensitivity, especially on delicate or acne-prone skin. Always follow with a moisturiser to restore hydration after exfoliating.

Emollients

Emollients soften or soothe the skin. They consist of specialty emollients, Natural butters, Natural oils and Silicones.

Specialty emollients are resistant to oxidation needing no antioxidants for preservation compared to natural butters and oils. They also tend to show excellent spread ability on the skin and provide a smooth and non-greasy feel to the skin. Example, Petrolatum.

Silicones are best known for their occlusive properties and they form a barrier-like coating on the skin that’s resistant to both water and air giving a silky feel. They are polymers with different unique properties such as conditioning, skin protecting, film-forming, thickening, emulsifying, and moisturizing. They can reduce irritation caused by surfactants.

Natural Butters are extracted from different types of plants, trees, seeds and roots. They remain solid at room temperatures and the composition of acids, oils and active ingredients in the different butters provide different end user properties such as moisturizing, soothing, anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

Natural oils are very good emollients and leaves the skin moisturized, smooth and soft. They come from vegetables and seeds and have different types of organic acids present such as palmitic acid, stearic acid and oleic acid. Stearic acid and palmitic acid are mostly found in solid natural oils such as coconut oil whereas oleic acid is found in the liquid natural oils.

Surfactants

Surfactants lower the surface tension between two liquids and acts as detergents, wetting agents, emulsifiers, foaming agents, and dispersants. They have good cleansing and foaming properties. Surfactants are classified as either primary or secondary surfactants and have different chemical structures( anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric and quarternary). Besides cleaning, other functions of surfactants can include, wetting, conditioning, emulsifying and thickening.

Anionic surfactants are ingredients that carry a negative electrical charge when dissolved in water. This charge makes them excellent at lifting away dirt, oil, and impurities.

They are the most common surfactants used in shampoos, facial cleansers, and body washes because they create rich foam and effectively remove buildup.

Cationic surfactants are ingredients that carry a positive electrical charge when dissolved in water. This unique property makes them strongly attracted to negatively charged surfaces like skin and hair.

They bond to hair and skin, leaving a soft, smooth feel. And, unlike other surfactants, they don’t rinse away easily, so they provide lasting conditioning.

They are commonly found in hair conditioners, detanglers, and some skin creams.

Amphoteric surfactants are ingredients that can carry either a positive or negative charge depending on the pH of the product they’re in. This dual nature makes them highly versatile and gentle.

They are milder than purely anionic surfactants, making them ideal for sensitive skin and baby products.

They are often used alongside other surfactants to boost foam quality and creaminess.

Non‑ionic surfactants are ingredients that do not carry any electrical charge in water. Because they are neutral, they are very gentle and compatible with a wide range of other ingredients.

They remove dirt and oil without being harsh, making them ideal for sensitive skin.

Emulsifiers

There are many different types of emulsifiers. The main function of an emulsifier is to prevent oil and water ingredients from separating in an emulsion. There are 2 main types of emulsifiers namely oil-in-water and water-in-oil.

These are used in moisturizing formulations such as day creams, lotions and other moisturizing creams. They help mix oil droplets inside a continuous water phase, creating an oil‑in‑water emulsion.

These are mostly used in fatty formulations such as sunscreens and night creams. They help mix water droplets inside an oil phase, creating a water‑in‑oil emulsion.

These can be used for sprays and mists and assist in stabilising the formulation. Some of these include polysorbate-20, polysorbate-80, PEG-40 and PEG-7.

Botanical Ingredients

They consist of botanical extracts, phytelenes and hydrosols and flower waters that Enhance the Nourishing, toning, and regenerative properties of your skin care and cosmetic product.

These consist of flowers immersed in water.

These are an aqueous solution distilled from aromatherapy plants.

Is a part of a plant or algae that has dissolved and becomes part of the carrier liquid

Are highly concentrated plant extracts that capture the natural fragrance and beneficial compounds of flowers, leaves, bark, roots, or fruits. They are obtained through methods like steam distillation or cold pressing.

Conditioners

If you are creating products for the hair, skin or cosmetics, then conditioners are one of the most important ingredients. The final shine, texture and feel of a formulation is determined by the ingredients in a conditioning formula. There are 3 major categories for conditioners namely silicone conditioners, Protein conditioners,  and quarternaries/cationics.

These are specials cationic surfactants that carry positive electrical charges and neutralize the negative charges formed in hair. It reduces the static electricity of hair, helping with the detangling of hair, improving the shine in hair and increasing the life of hair colour on hair.

These are hydrolyzed proteins  from plant and animal sources which function primarily as skin and hair conditioning agents in personal care products. 

Provide smoothness, silkiness and moisturising effects. They are used in sunscreens, shampoos, hair conditioners, lotions, lipsticks and make-up formulations for a superior silky spreadable feel. 

Enhancers & Sensory Ingredients

These serve to enhance the feel, look, and experience of a cosmetic or skincare product.

Texturisers and fillers consist of pearlising agents and powdered minerals/grains. Pearlising agents give luster and shine to a formula and some also has thickening and emulsifying properties. Pearlescent pigments, glycol stearate and bismuth oxychloride are examples of pearlising agents.

Texturisers consist of fine natural crystals and minerals such as silicates, bismuth and magnesium. They are widely used in makeup and effective in thickening, filling and stabilising formulas/products.

Colourants can be classified as either organic or inorganic and can be added as is or dispersed in castor oil.

Organic colours in the past were derived from coal sources but these days there are mostly synthetic colours. Some are soluble in water, soluble in oil or insoluble in water/oil.

Inorganic colours (pigments) consist of insoluble metallic compounds from natural sources. They do not have health risk associated with organic colours and they are insoluble. They can be classed into iron oxides, zinc oxides, titanium oxides, carbon blacks, chromium oxide greens and ultramarines.

Mica’s have many different colours and particle sizes. Mica’s smaller than 20micron give a satin like appearance and Mica’s with a particle size larger than 150micron give a sparkle appearance.

Fragrances can be used in almost all personal care, hair care and cosmetic formulations. They are typically a blend of natural oils and aroma compounds. Most fragrances are undiluted and have not been cut with solvents and therefore very little is used in formulations. You would typically use 0.1-0.2% fragrance in creams, shower gels, bubble bath and lotions and up to 3% in soaps.

Thickeners are used in many personal care and cosmetic formulas to increase the consistency, volume and viscosity of a formula. Some thickeners also have emulsifying and gelling properties. There are natural and synthetic thickeners from different sources with different molecular structures and they can be liquid, solid or polymers. Polymers can also be used as gel builders, , fixatives, styling agents, conditioners, pearlisers, emollients and fil-formers.

Product Protection & Stability

These are used to keep cosmetic and skincare products safe, effective, and long‑lasting, by protecting against microbial growth, maintaining balance, and ensuring that the product stays stable over time. 

Preservatives prevent the growth of bacteria, yeast, and mold, ensuring products remain safe throughout their shelf life. They can be classified into either natural antimicrobial, broad spectrum preservatives and stabilizers.

Examples of natural antimicrobials include potassium sorbate, tea tree oil, hexanediol and sorbic acid. Examples of broad-spectrum preservatives include phenoxyethanol and Geogard 221.

Stabilizers help maintain consistency, preventing separation or degradation. Theu achieve this by maintaining the functionality, pH and activity of ingredients such as essential oils, fragrances, and active ingredients. Examples of stabilisers include EDTA and Sodium Gluconate.

They are used to fine‑tune the acidity or alkalinity of a formula to keep it within the optimal range for both ingredient stability and skin compatibility.

These chemical ingredients maintain the stability of formulations and efficacy of the finished cosmetic or personal care product.

General

These are used to keep cosmetic and skincare products safe, effective, and long‑lasting, by protecting against microbial growth, maintaining balance, and ensuring that the product stays stable over time. 

Chemical ingredients can be added to already made formulations with care and understanding and should not exceed more than 10-15% as the stability of the formula may be affected. When doing so you need to consider solubility, pH, volume and contamination of the final product. When it comes to solubility, oil soluble ingredients cannot be added to water based products such as toners and water based products cannot be added to oil based products, but both can be added to ready made emulsions such as creams. Contamination can occur if the addition ingredient is not preserved as it may cause bacterial or fungal growth. If more than 10% additional ingredients are added then it is recommended that additional preservative should be added. Usually the rule of thumb is 1% of the ingredient added.

Stabilizers help maintain consistency, preventing separation or degradation. Theu achieve this by maintaining the functionality, pH and activity of ingredients such as essential oils, fragrances, and active ingredients. Examples of stabilisers include EDTA and Sodium Gluconate.

An emulsion can break down when the oil and water phases separate. This instability may appear in different forms:

Creaming

The oil rises to the top, forming a fatty cream layer. This process is reversible.

  • Causes: Incorrect water/oil ratio, droplets that are too large, or a mixture that is too thin.

  • Solutions: Reduce droplet size with vigorous mixing, or add a thickener if the emulsion is too runny.

Flocculation

Droplets of the internal phase stick together, forming clumps.

  • Causes: Weak dispersion or insufficient emulsifier.

  • Solutions: Break up clumps with mixing, or add more emulsifier to stabilize.

Separation (Coalescence)

Droplets merge into larger ones, causing the emulsion to fully separate. This is irreversible, and the formula must be remade.

  • Causes:
    • Too little emulsifier in the formula

    • Water‑soluble emulsifiers precipitating out

    • pH too acidic or too basic

    • Incompatibility between emulsifiers (e.g., cationic vs anionic)

    • Wrong type of emulsifier chosen

We provide detailed information on each ingredient’s product page, including its benefits, uses, and recommended application methods. 

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